TOP 5 LFW MENSWEAR SHOWS

Yesterday saw London’s annual Menswear Day, a day that celebrates the breadth of talent that London designers have to offer. TSK was there to cover the day, and here we bring you our top five shows…

JAMES LONGA triumphant collection that showcased Long’s continual attention to detail, bold fabric choices and great separates. The true stars of the collection were the jackets, whether in fur, leather or wool, taking the aviator jacket and making it fresh for a new season.The knitwear was also strong, from delicate cardigans laced with gold or thick wool jumpers with covetable matching scarves. Teamed with velvet or leather trousers, each look explored texture to great effect.

There was a palpable excitement around this young designer’s show, and with a collection as polished as this, there is no doubt that Small is destined for great things.

OLIVER SPENCEROliver Spencer is a bit of an old hand on the menswear scene, but that did not make his latest collection any the less exciting. Walked down the catwalk by a parade of interesting models from young to old, many sporting impressive beards, Spencer’s collection had plenty of attitude. Inspired by 1970s art house and a young Lucien Freud, the collection, in muted shades of red, green and grey, contained a ready made wardrobe for the modern gentleman. Our favourite pieces were the Fairisle style jackets and two-tone bombers – but as always, it was the great tailoring of the suits that truly stood out.

E TAUTZThe E Tautz show was held in the beautiful Freemason’s Hall. It was a relaxed location away from the hubbub of Somerset House, perfect for showcasing E Tautz’s grown up collection. Much of the collection was in black and grey, but there were also touches of colour, like blue and bright red. Inspired by Richard Serra’s artwork, E Tautz sought to explore his concept of weight (‘there is an imponderable vastness to weight’) creating fabrics that had substance and density. It was yet another great collection from this brand that fuses Savile Row tailoring with challenging modern design.

TOPMAN DESIGNThe Topman Design show was a star-studded affair. It was an eclectic front row – from Ronnie Wood to David Gandy, Amir Khan to Freddie Fox – Topman demonstrated the wide appeal of their high end collection. Unlike their previous collection in colourful paisley, their AW show was all about black and grey. It as a collection that proved why Topman Design is such a great concept – this was clothing that competes with menswear counterparts that charge far more for their pieces. There was classic tailoring in the form of well cut trousers and suits, alongside more directional pieces, like sheer tops and a PVC jacket. We just can’t wait for Autumn when it hits stores.

MANMAN, Fashion East’s showcase of three talented menswear designers is always a highlight of mens day. This year, the audience was treated to Astrid Anderson’s futuristic sportswear complete with reflector trousers (above), Agi & Sam’s polished designs with a focus of stunning bespoke prints and Shaun Samson’s in-your-face collection inspired by his upbringing in San Diego. With previous MAN winners now gaining Newgen sponsorship, it has become a real platform for young designers to break into the competitive world of menswear.

Jack Moss.