The show spaces had changed for this season's London Collections: Men. The old space at The Old Sorting Office looked like it was being totally gutted by massive cranes but the new space on The Strand was more than amenable. Check out what we saw across the long weekend at London's premier men's fashion event.
CMMN SWDN's presentation was a lesson in the tasteful application of the 70s aesthetic with a plywood back drop and brown tones that are so evocative of the era. The duo behind the brand focused on the homes that they grew up in, which explains the plywood and decade of inspiration. The fabrics here were incredible with brown pony skin, suede and knitted wool used on everything and supplemented with black leather. The stand out piece was a reversible coat that was camel on one side and a thick knit on the other.
Baartman's Siegel mainlined 70s glamour, studio 54 madness and big hair straight in to fashion's main artery. The feeling one got in the basement of Victoria House was of being on the pavement as someone stepped out of a limousine. The fur was real and this being AW16 the coats were layered on top of one another. The pinstripe was pleasantly contrasted with a camel and animal print in various guises.
A posthumous collaboration for Pretty Green and Jimi Hendrix saw them present a modern interpretation of the guitar legend's style. Four looks featured the Pretty Green house paisley and a brocade military jacket that Hendrix was known for, one in black and one in a purple velvet. Presented in front of a wall of Hendrix portraits the collection really brought the legend in to the room.
Chester Barrie focused on the red carpet. Specifically the Tony awards, the BAFTAs and a few other such ceremonies for which the prerequisite uniform would be a tuxedo. The venue itself had a red carpet through it's middle leading up to a screen showing the aforementioned award shows. The tuxedo was fully in effect at the show in various guises - notched and unnotched lapel, velvet, wool and everything in between - and at one point it appeared as David Gandy was giving a pep talk to the other models.
At Richard James there was a definitely a sense of modernity in the fabrication of both the suiting and the more informal fare. Once again a wide leg and a roll neck were present but this was one of the bolder colour palettes on show. The teal blue really stood out, as did the red, white and blue knit. The suiting was mostly double breasted including in a beige check although there was a little single breasted in velvet.